It's hard to see Cipriani's as a New York institution.
Totally agree, JL. Cipriani's is over-priced, over-hyped, poor service and mediocre food. Peter Lugar's IS a NY institution, and deserves the sobriquet. An expensive institution, for sure.
The only place that I have heard the term "gravy" applied to past sauce is from my buddy's Italian mother-in-law in Brooklyn. Man, she knew how to make it.
The cachet surrounding Rao's amazes me. It looks like a tired old Mafia money-laudering place to me. I was singularly unimpressed even tho' one of my clients loved to take me there.
By the way, if I was an owner of Rao's and Blond Kel walked in, she would get top-notch service!
Enjoy,
Chels